
Are any three letters as elegant as YSL? When he was seventeen, Yves
Saint Laurent began working for Christian Dior, who referred to him as his
dauphin. When Dior died suddenly four years later, Saint Laurent was
made head of the fashion house, but soon he was conscripted to serve
in the Algerian war. Hazed by his rougher fellow soldiers, the fragile
couture artiste lasted twenty days before he had a nervous breakdown.
The army tried to cure him with electroshock therapy. When he returned
to Dior, he found he had been replaced. He started his own house,
giving rise to some of the most famous clothes in history: the Mondrian
dress, "le Smoking," the tuxedo for women, the designer leather jacket,
the sheath dress, the gold cape. For nearly twenty years he and his
business manager Pierre Bergé were lovers, and, after they broke up they continued living together for another
ten years. In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living designer to
be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a retrospective. In
1993, he and Bergé sold the company for $600 million. After his
retirement in 2002, Saint Laurent spent much of his time in Marrakech,
where he restored and opened to the public the
vivid gardens
originally
designed by French expat Jacques Majorelle. He died in June 2008 (most
newspapers degayed his obituary, calling Bergé, who announced his
death, "a friend" or omitting him) and his ashes are interred in the
garden. At his funeral in Paris, Catherine Deneuve read a poem by Walt
Whitman. The Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, a powerhouse in aids research and funding, also operates his
haute couture studio as a gallery showcasing fashion. Two great photo books are
Yves Saint Laurent
and
Yves Saint Laurent: Style.
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